
Making good pizza1 took longer to figure out than sourdough. Lacking an authoritative book to help build intuition, I had to mess up a lot of pizza before I was happy with my results. Getting good at most things requires messing up, but there’s two tips that would’ve helped me reach good pizza faster
Flour is your friend in the fight against accidental calzones
Many of my pizzas met their demise in the transfer from counter to oven. Scrunched up, folded over, toppings scattered messy doughy failures. Wet pizza dough would stick to the peel, preventing a smooth transfer to the oven. I tried so many tricks. Flouring the peel heavily ended up with burnt flour on the bottom of my misshapen pizza.
In a rare win for scrolling, a video of a pizzeria showed me a very obvious solution: just totally flour the dough. In a bowl of flour, pat both sides of the dough ball and then go around the edge. A very simple solution that has fixed pizza stickage for me.
You can’t turn a square dough into a round pizza
- Build internal tension in the dough when portioning. See Brian Lagerstrom’s video for a good demonstration on how to do this.
- When cold proofing the dough (which you should do if time allows), do not use a container that will touch the edge of the dough, distorting its shape. Whenever my dough is not a perfect circle, I’m not able to get it to be a perfect circular pizza either (see the image at the top)
- Let the dough come up to room temperature before shaping. Cold dough springs back when stretched.
- Pressing down and not outward is the best way to stretch out the dough. By moving your hands out in concentric rings, you’re pushing the dough out further and further. Trying to pull the dough out by force will just end up tearing the dough

For me, the best pizza is New York style. Thin, crunchy, a little bit of chew, good amount of cheese balanced by a rich tomato sauce. I like Kenji’s recipe for both sauce and dough. ↩︎

